Restaurant Boulevard . 1, Ekaterinskaya Sq. Tel. 38 048 777 03 39.
Harking back to Odessa's romantic past, this sunny, belle epoque tribute is located at the top of the Potemkin stairs. The fish soup is famous, if not authentic, and the luncheons aristocratic. Open 11.OO-midnight.

Friends and Beer. 9, Deribasovksaya St. Tel. 38 048 760 19 98.
This cool, underground wine cellar is Odessa's most beloved cafe among travellers and local bohemians, serving beer and really delicious food. Decked out with original Odessa antiques and forgotten books of the Soviet era, the menu is thoughtful - do indulge in the chocolate mousse. The very laidback atmosphere, artsy film nights and striking waitresses add to the cafe's allure. Open 11.OO-midnight.

Restaurant Hebron. 30, Rishelyevskaya St. Tel. 38 048 715 03 74.
Dedicated to old Jerusalem and the memory of Odessa's Jewish emigration, this underground cafe serves the very best Jewish food in the city. Located beneath the synagogue, this totally kosher kitchen offers staples like falafel, latkes, knish and kugel, washed down with big goblets of kosher wine. Open 11.00-23.00, closed Saturday.